This was my second trip to Cuba, the first one being fifteen years previously. I have to report that to the naked eye, nothing has really changed. True, they have more private businesses, but even though there are more restaurants (in particular) they still can't cook. In the same way, they say they have wifi. They do, but if you can make it work, even at all or to any reasonable standard, then you're doing well. Similarly, they technically have a mobile phone network, but there is nothing quite like using one of the many local phones. They work, and this is about them.

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